Archive for April, 2010

SimplyCats Vet Clinic SimplyCats and Dentals

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If you have ever had a cavity or dental work done, you know how uncomfortable and inconvenient it can be. For humans, caring for our teeth is something we do almost automatically. Since cats are unable to brush their own teeth and, like humans, do not have a natural, built-in way to keep teeth clean, it falls on you to maintain your cat’s dental health.

Veterinary research indicates that dental disease, in its various forms, is the number one health issue in feline medicine and about 70% of cats over the age of three have some kind of dental problem. Fortunately for your cat, dental disease is preventable!

When I got Piglet she had slight tartar on her canines and molars, and ideally needed a scale and polish. I decided to let her settle in first before undergoing any dental work.

Scale and polish is the most common dental procedure performed on cats. Generally, the process takes about an hour. General anesthesia is required for any kind of veterinary dental work.

Piglet is currently fed Purina Housecat dry food and she loves it, I can’t get it into her bowl quick enough :-) I also use Logical Oral gel on her teeth once daily, or as often as I get a chance to do it. 8 weeks later I checked her teeth and the tartar has almost all gone from her teeth and she now doesn’t need a dental.

Not all cats will be as lucky as Piglet and find their tartar breaks down completely but it just goes to show that  a dental routine really does make a difference to your cat’s oral hygiene.

SimplyCats Vet Clinic Piglet the Sphynx

Claire

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SimplyCats Vet Clinic SimplyCats and How to wrap a present with the help of your cat

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1.Clear large space on table for wrapping present.
2.Go to wardrobe and collect bag in which present is contained, and close door.
3.Open door and remove cat from wardrobe.
4.Go to cupboard and retrieve rolls of wrapping paper.
5.Go back and remove cat from cupboard.
6.Go to drawer and collect sellotape, ribbons, scissors, labels, etc.
7.Lay out present and wrapping materials on table, to enable wrapping strategy to be formed.
8.Go back to drawer to get string, remove cat that has been in the drawer since last visit, and collect string.
9.Remove present from bag.
10.Remove cat from bag.
11.Open box to check present, remove cat from box, replace present.
12.Lay out paper to enable cutting to size.
13.Cut the paper to size, trying to keep the cutting line straight.
14.Throw away first sheet because cat tried to chase the scissors and tore paper.
15.Cut 2nd sheet of paper to size by putting cat in the bag the present came out of.
16.Place present on cut-to-size paper.
17.Lift up edges of paper to seal in present, wonder why edges now don’t reach, and find cat between present and paper. Remove cat and retry.
18.Place object on paper, to hold in place, while cutting sellotape.
19.Spend next 20 minutes carefully trying to remove sellotape from cat with pair of nail scissors.
20.Seal paper down with sellotape, making corners as neat as possible.
21.Look for roll of ribbon; chase cat down hall and retrieve ribbon.
22.Try to wrap present with ribbon in a two-directional turn.
23.Re-roll up ribbon and remove paper that is now torn, due to cat’s enthusiasm in chasing ribbon end.
24.Repeat steps 12-22 until down to last sheet of paper.
25.Decide to skip steps 12-16 in order to save time and reduce risk of losing last sheet of paper. Retrieve old cardboard box that you know is right size for paper.
26.Put present in box, and tie down with string.
27.Remove string, open box and remove cat.
28.Put all packing materials in bag with present and head for lockable room.
29.Once inside room, lock door and start to re-lay out packing materials.
30.Remove cat from box, unlock door, put cat outside door, close door and re-lock.
31.Lay out last sheet of paper. (Admittedly this is difficult in the small area of the toilet, but try your best!)
32.Seal box, wrap with paper and start repairs by very carefully sealing down tears with sellotape. Now tie up with ribbon and decorate with bows to hide worst affected areas.
33.Label, then sit back and admire your handiwork, congratulating yourself on making good of a bad job.
34.Unlock door, and go to kitchen to make drink and feed cat.
35.Spend next 15 minutes looking for cat, before coming to obvious conclusion.
36.Unwrap present, untie box and remove cat.
37.Retrieve all discarded sheets of wrapping paper, feed cat and retire to lockable room for last attempt, making certain you are alone and the door is locked.
38.At time of handing over present, smile sweetly at receiver’s face, as they try and hide their contempt at being handed such a badly wrapped present.
39.Swear to yourself that next year, you will get the shop to wrap the things for you.

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SimplyCats Vet Clinic SimplyCats and Rules for cats with a house to run

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DOORS: Allow no closed doors in any room. To get door opened, stand on hind legs and hammer with forepaws. Once door is opened, it is not necessary to use it. Once an outside door is opened, stand halfway out and think about several things – a particularly good idea during the coldest weather or mosquito season.

CHAIRS AND RUGS: If you have to throw up, get on to a chair quickly. If there is no time, get to an expensive Oriental rug.

BATHROOMS: Always accompany guests to the bathroom. It is not necessary to do anything – just sit and stare.

HELPING: If one of your humans is busy and the other is idle, stay with the busy one. This is called ‘helping’ and here are the rules: – Cooking: To supervise, sit just behind the left heel of the cook. You can’t be seen and thereby stand a better chance of being stepped on, then picked up and comforted.

Books: For book readers, get in close under the chin, between eyes and book, unless you can lie across the book itself.

Knitting and Paperwork: Lie on it in the most appropriate manner so as to obscure the most important part. Pretend to doze, but every so often paw the pencil or knitting needles. The worker may try to distract you – ignore it. To give the greatest help, first, sit on the paper being worked on. When dislodged, watch sadly from the side of the table.

When activity proceeds nicely, roll around on the papers, scattering them to the best of your ability. After being removed for the second time, push pens, pencils, and erasers off the table, one at a time. When a human is holding the newspaper in front of them, be sure to jump on the back of it – they love surprises. Embroidery and Needlework: These projects make great hammocks in spite of what the humans may tell you.

WALKING: As often as possible, dart quickly and as close as possible in front of the human, especially: on stairs, when they have something in their arms, in the dark, and when they first get up in the morning. This will help their coordination skills.

BEDTIME: Always sleep on the human at night so she/he cannot move around.

 

Claire

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SimplyCats Vet Clinic SimplyCats and our Open Day

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We are holding an Open Day at SimplyCats Veterinary Clinic on Saturday 8th May 2010 at 1pm to raise funds for Cats Protection.

The event will take place at our cat only veterinary clinic at 12 Front Street, Fencehouses, if you don’t know how to find us, please click here

Everyone is welcome; infact the more the merrier.

The practice will be open for you to look around and see what a cat only veterinary clinic really looks like behind the scenes.

We will be on hand for you to ask plenty of questions. There will be lots to see and do at the practice.

There will be plenty of tea and coffee, cakes and biscuits for you to enjoy.

We held a similar event last year and everyone had a fantastic time. Click here to view photos of our Open Day/Tea Party in 2009

SimplyCats Veterinary Clinic Open Day for Cats Protection on 8th May 2010

Claire

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SimplyCats Vet Clinic SimplyCats and human foods that can poison pets

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I often find people are fascinated to discover foods which are toxic to their pets. So I thought I would share the following blog with you that I read by Pete Wedderburn.

Pete Wedderburn qualified as a vet twenty-five years ago, and now spends half his working life writing newspaper columns. He lives in Ireland with his wife, two daughters and a menagerie of dogs, cats, poultry and other furry and feathered companions. Pete answers readers’ queries about their pets’ health in his video Q&A – he is also on Twitter as @petethevet and has a Facebook Fan Page.)

“After I blogged recently about pets with peculiar tastes in food, a number of readers asked me to produce a list of human foodstuffs that are toxic to pets.  Everyone’s heard the message about chocolate being toxic to pets, and hopefully Easter has passed without too many canine fatalities across the UK (and yes, they do happen: it isn’t just media hype).  But what about other food items that are safe for humans, yet capable of causing severe or even lethal intoxications in animals?

Well, co-incidentally, I’ve just come across an article reviewing this precise subject in the European Journal of Companion Animal Practice, so with thanks to the authors, here’s a brief review of the main food items to avoid giving to your pets:

Chocolate contains the stimulant theobromine. This gives humans a pleasant buzz, but the lethal dose  is around 1 to 2.5 grams for a 10kg dog. This could be as little as two ounces of dark baking chocolate.

Coffee and tea contain caffeine: for my 10kg dog, the lethal dose is around 1.5g (a cat, at 5kg, could be killed by half of this amount).  An cup of filter coffee could contain as much as 150mg of caffeine, so my dog would need to drink 10 cups (5 cups for the cat), so this is an unlikely occurrence.  Dark tea may contain up to 100mg caffeine, so again, a dog would have to be very thirsty to drink a toxic dose. Nonetheless, owners should go easy when offering these types of drinks as “treats”.

Onions and garlic contain so-called organothiosulphates, which can lead to destruction of red blood cells. Pets rarely eat enough of these substances to fall ill (the quantities used to flavour human meals are generally safe), but there are recorded cases of cats falling ill after drinking onion soup and dogs becoming anaemic after grazing on fields of spring onions.

Grapes and raisins seem innocuous, but in 2001 the first article was published in the USA about their potential toxicity to dogs, and since then, the phenomenon has been recognised across the world. In the UK, there were 23 cases between 2003 and 2005.  The toxic agent remains unknown but it can cause severe, fatal renal failure, after ingestion of relatively small quantities of grapes or raisins.  The lowest dose that has been known to cause problems is  20g/kg of grapes (perhaps 20 grapes for my 10kg dog), or 3g/kg of raisins (about 20 – 30 raisins for my 10kg dog).  In one study, 60% of dogs that ate substantial amounts of grapes  were poisoned: it’s now recommended that every dog that has eaten grapes or raisins should be treated intensively to reduce the risk of complications.

Avocado is consumed by people all over the world, but all parts of the avocado tree and fruit contain a component called persin that can cause damage to cells in the heart and the mammary gland in birds and animals. Mashed avocado is known to have killed canaries and budgies, and there was one case report in 1994 of two dogs that loved eating avocados that died of heart failure. It’s not a big risk to feed occasional teaspoonfuls to dogs, but still, it’s best avoided.

Macadamia nuts also contain a toxic compound that has not yet been identified; they’ve been associated with lethargy, weakness and collapse in dogs when eaten in moderate amounts (between 2.2 and 64g/kg: if one nut weighs 3g, my 10kg terrier would need to eat between 7 and 20 nuts). All affected dogs have made a full recovery, but it’s still best to avoid feeding these to your pets.

Hops has sometimes been eaten by dogs when they’ve had access to waste that’s been left over after home brewing; it contains a number of compounds that may be toxic.  Affected dogs suffer from a syndrome known as malignant hyperthermia, with the body temperature shooting up soon after hops ingestion. Emergency treatment is as important as if a dog has overheated due to being left in a parked car on a sunny day.

Salt is safe as a seasoning agent, but when pets eat large quantities, they can be fatally poisoned. This only happens rarely: case reports include a Boxer that drank huge amounts of salty water while swimming in the sea, a group of dogs that ate play dough,  and a Doberman that was given 10 teaspoonfuls of salt by her owner in an effort to make her sick after she’d eaten chocolate.

Xylitol is produced naturally by many fruits, and is also produced synthetically: it is used as a sweetening agent in human nutrition (it’s known as “E976″). It’s common in toothpaste, chewing gum and lozenges: it has plaque-reducing properties, and it produces a cooling effect on the tongue. The first recorded case of toxicity in a dog happened in 2004, after a 9 month old Labrador ate around 100 pieces of a sugar-free chewing gum.The dog collapsed, suffering from a dramatically reduced blood sugar, but she made a rapid recovery after treatment.  Since then, many other cases have been reported, and some have died.  The message: if you’ve a dog with a big appetite, keep your chewing gums stash out of reach.

There are other foodstuffs that can cause problems. Adult pets lack the enzyme to digest lactose, so large quantities of any dairy products commonly causes diarrhoea. Raw egg whites can also upset the digestion, so should be given in moderation, if at all.  The stones of many fruits (apples, pears, plums, apricots, peaches, nectarines and cherries) contain a compound that can be toxic if they’re cracked open and swallowed. Some raw vegetables (including cassava, common beans and runner beans) contain substances than can damage the digestive tract.

Finally, alcohol can be poisonous for pets, just as for humans. A couple of measures of whisky would be more than enough to cause severe poisoning to my 10kg dog. In one bizarre case, reported in 2008, a dog in Austria suffered from alcohol poisoning after eating half a kilogram of raw yeast dough. The fermentation of yeast in the digestive tract had produced enough ethanol to cause the dog to have a blood alcohol level higher than the legal limit for driving.  (By the way, raw dough is best avoided for another reason: it can expand inside the digestive tract, causing a blockage.)

Cats are less commonly poisoned than dogs: they’re more fastidious in their eating habits. Dogs, especially some breeds (you know who I mean, Labrador-owners) can have unstoppable appetites, with no discernible “off-switch”, which makes them particularly prone to problems.”

written by Pete Wedderburn
http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/news/peterwedderburn/100032752/dont-feed-your-animals-barbed-wire-and-other-tips-to-avoid-problems-with-pets/

 SimplyCats poison grapes cat

 

Claire

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SimplyCats Vet Clinic SimplyCats and boxes

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It seems that many cats like to ‘help’ when it comes to packing or unpacking things at home. This is my cat, Katie getting in on the action, along with my son, Calum.

SimplyCats and boxes

Caroline

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